Read About The Dunbar Tea Shop

TASTE & TELL: Enjoy a grand tea at Ritz-Carlton, in Cohasset, on Cape

By CHRISTINE ORDWAY The Patriot Ledger

For a special experience, consider celebrating Mother’s Day at afternoon tea. Afternoon tea has been a tradition at the Ritz-Carlton since it opened in 1927. Generations of Bostonians have enjoyed teatime there and it remains a top choice for those looking for a little luxury. On a recent Sunday afternoon, my sister and I met at the Ritz for tea. We were seated at a window overlooking Newbury Street in a lovely room. There was silk on the walls and crystal chandeliers on the ceiling. A harpist provided pleasant background music. At the Ritz, tea is served on Wedgewood china, at black marble-topped tables. It is the very epitome of elegance. The Ritz dress code for tea specifies ‘‘casual elegance, no denim.’’ If you enjoy wearing fancy hats, this would be the place to wear one. However, tea at the Ritz is not limited to little old ladies. Several parties included gentlemen, and even some well-behaved children. The tea service is available as either one course ($20) or two ($28). The single course includes tea and an assortment of scones and bite-size pastries. The two-course tea service begins with assorted finger sandwiches, followed by scones and pastries. Less-adventurous children have the option of ordering a plate of peanut butter and jelly mini-sandwiches, with cookies and hot chocolate ($16). We ordered the two-course tea, called ‘‘The Edelweiss,’’ and were not disappointed. We were presented with a triple-tiered silver tray that artfully displayed our open-faced tea sandwiches. They included smoked salmon and caviar on pumpernickel, egg and watercress on white bread, a lobster salad profiterole, Serrano ham on toasted brioche, and a magnificent cucumber and herbed cream cheese sandwich. Oscar Wilde would have been impressed. We were each served a pot of our choice of tea, which was kept warm on silver warmers at our table. Our teacups were promptly refilled by the attentive waitstaff, the closest I’ve come to being waited on hand and foot. We’d have gladly settled for a second round of sandwiches, but our waiter promised that the second course was even better. It included currant and orange scones, served with Devonshire cream and a fantastic lemon curd, opera cake, Grand Marnier choux, lemon tartlets, pistachio financiers, assorted cookies and chocolate-dipped strawberries. Afternoon tea is served Wednesday through Sunday in the second floor lounge, with seatings at 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. Due to limited seating, reservations are recommended. For those who prefer to stay closer to home, there are other options for tea on the South Shore. The Windsor Tea Room in Cohasset Village serves lunch and tea in a small, cozy room with lace curtains and floral tablecloths. The menu includes sandwiches ($5.99-$8.99), including an excellent chicken salad, quiche ($8.99), salads ($6.99-$8.99) and desserts ($2-$5.50). Afternoon tea ($14.99) includes three tea sandwiches, a scone served with whipped cream and lemon curd, three desserts, and your choice of tea. Just over the bridge on Cape Cod is the Dunbar Tea Room. Located in Sandwich, across from the Dexter Grist Mill, the Dunbar Tea Room is open for lunch and tea year-round. It is reminiscent of the type of tea room found in England, with dark wood paneling and a working fireplace. In warm weather, seating is also available in the shady tea garden. The food is excellent. I particularly enjoyed the spicy corn and shrimp soup ($4.25) and the Cumberland Crumpet Melt ($10.95), which consisted of cheddar cheese melted over chicken salad, served on toasted English crumpets spread with cranberry sauce, and accompanied by a fresh salad garnish. Afternoon tea ($10.95, tea priced separately) includes assorted finger sandwiches, fresh scones with strawberry jam and cream, and desserts. REVIEW —The Ritz-Carlton, 15 Arlington St., Boston, 617-912-3355. Afternoon tea served Wednesday-Sunday; Seatings at 2 and 4 p.m. Reservations recommended. Valet parking available. Major credit cards accepted —The Windsor Tea Room, 1 Pleasant St., Cohasset Village; 781-383-6140. Lunch and tea served Tuesday-Saturday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Parking available in town lot. Major credit cards accepted —The Dunbar Tea Room, 1 Water St., Sandwich; 508-833-2485. Lunch and tea served daily 11 a.m to 4:30 p.m. Parking available. Major credit cards accepted Copyright 2006 The Patriot Ledger Transmitted Wednesday, May 10, 2006